The Idea of Denim

The Idea of Denim

Two of the most familiar words in your wardrobe actually have links to two European cities. Yes, your jeans have a passport.

WHY “JEANS”?

The word “jeans” is linked to Genoa, the Italian port city. Oxford traces the word to Janne, an Old French name for Genoa, where a heavy cotton fabric associated with the term was historically made. The fabric and the garment evolved over centuries, but the city connection stuck. So when you pull on a pair of jeans, you are wearing a name with a surprisingly geographical backstory.

AND WHAT ABOUT “DENIM”?

Here is the fashion-history plot twist: “jeans” and “denim” do not come from the same place. The word “denim” is traditionally traced to the French phrase serge de Nîmes, meaning a serge or twill associated with Nîmes in southern France. In other words, jeans points to Genoa, while the word denim points to Nîmes. The two terms eventually became inseparable in modern fashion.

BEFORE BLUE JEANS, THERE WAS INDIGO

Indigo is not just a colour choice that happens to look good with everything. Indigo has been used in India for millennia to colour yarn and fabric and became an important part of Indian textile traditions and global textile trade. The familiar blue of jeans is therefore part of a much bigger global textile story.

FROM WORKWEAR TO ICON

May 20, 1873 is widely regarded as a landmark date in the history of the modern blue jean. On that date, Levi Strauss and tailor Jacob Davis received a US patent for reinforcing work trousers with metal rivets. The idea was practical: reinforce high-stress points, especially around pockets, so the trousers would not tear as easily. The trousers were originally described as “waist overalls,” rather than simply jeans. The name “jeans” became the standard term for the garment much later.

THAT TINY POCKET? IT HAD A JOB.

That little pocket inside the front pocket of classic jeans was not designed for AirPods. It was originally a watch pocket, intended to hold a pocket watch. Those tiny metal rivets on early jeans also had a practical purpose: they reinforced areas that were likely to rip. Some of the details we now see as signature denim design began as pure problem-solving.

FROM THE WORKSITE TO THE WORLD

Jeans spent their early life as durable clothing for workers, but their cultural status changed dramatically in the 20th century. By the 1950s and especially the 1960s, jeans had become increasingly associated with youth culture and rebellion. Today, denim can move from office-casual to streetwear to wedding-season styling depending on the cut, wash and what you wear with it. Not bad for a pair of trousers originally built to survive hard labour.


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